Mama Chang cooked for me

Chang Chang, web site, 1200 19th St NW, Washington, DC (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | Washingtonian | TripAdvisor | Michelin]

Yes, the real Mama Chang, mother of Peter Chang, at 84 years old. They even named a restaurant after her!

It is the best Chinese meal I have eaten outside of China, and in contention for broader honors as well.

Here is a photo of the menu, which says everything. There was no weak course.

Mama Chang Menu

The restaurant Chang Chang, in DC, hopes to do this again next year.

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Mumbai Central

Mumbai Central, web site, 7505 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-272-4551 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | TripAdvisor | FFXNow | Restaurantji]

In mall where the now-closed Falls Church Whole Foods used to be. Excellent Indian food, and some unique regional dishes. My favorite is Dhansack, a Parsi curry that I have not seen anywhere outside of India. The Kamal Kakdi Chaat also was a delight. The standard Indian dishes deliver too. For what you might call “central northern Virginia” this is currently the go-to place.

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One Night in Bangkok

One Night in Bangkok at Duangrat’s, FB, web site, 5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA, 703-820-5775 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | Eater]

On the second floor above Duangrat’s, in a pop-up kind of style. Very good Thai street food. I have had many of the dishes here, and do best by simply asking the proprietor to bring what she thinks is best. The duck rolls are especially good, but most of it is very tasty. You can create wonderful variety in your meal, and at quite a reasonable cost. Definitely deserves to be in the repertoire. Do check the hours before going, it is not open for weekday lunch or on Mondays? They report: “Featuring Thai street food, sweets, Asian pantry, gift shop, beer & wine, weekend grab & go, dim sum, 80’s tunes and lots of neon.” The atmosphere is good fun.

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Yeshi Kitfo

Yeshi Kitfo, web site, 3400 Washington Dr., Unit D, Bailey’s Crossroads, VA 571-347-7259 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | TripAdvisor | BirdEye | Reddit]

The best kitfo around, period. Just keep on getting it. They also have the best yellow lentils around. Good beef tibs, oddly no lamb tibs. Those dishes are so good, I can’t bring myself to order the others. In any case this place is a new favorite, go, go, go. It is also quiet and good for talking.

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The Curious Surge of Productivity in U.S. Restaurants

    We document that, after remaining almost constant for almost 30 years, real labor productivity at U.S. restaurants surged over 15% during the COVID pandemic. This surge has persisted even as many conditions have returned to pre-pandemic levels. Using mobile phone data tracking visits and spending at more than 100,000 individual limited service restaurants across the country, we explore the potential sources of the surge. It cannot be explained by economies of scale, expanding market power, or a direct result of COVID-sourced demand fluctuations. The restaurants’ productivity growth rates are strongly correlated, however, with reductions in the amount of time their customers spend in the establishments, particularly with a rising share of customers spending 10 minutes or less. The frequency of such ‘take-out’ customers rose considerably during COVID, even at fast food restaurants, and never went back down. The magnitude of the restaurant-level relationship between productivity and customer dwell time, if applied to the aggregate decrease in dwell time, can explain almost all of the aggregate productivity increase in our sample.

That is from a new paper by Austan Goolsbee, Chad Syverson, Rebecca Goldgof & Joe Tatarka. A good paper, though I for one will note I consider the take-out experience (which I hardly ever do) to be a quality degradation.

The Curious Surge of Productivity in U.S. Restaurants

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Bengaluru Cafe

Bengaluru Cafe, web site, 3957 Pender Dr # 105, Fairfax, VA, 703-691-2468 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | Washingtonian | RoadTrippers | Reddit | Restaurantji]

Right now the best dosa short of the Herndon-Dulles area. Excellent South Indian vegetarian food, lots of other regional dishes, note they are heavy on carbs, don’t come here looking for vegetables. Has a good Indian crowd, and you can trust your GPS, it is really is hidden behind all those office buildings, even if you feel a restaurant cannot possibly be here. Recommended.

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Is Indian food the world’s best?

From my latest Bloomberg column:

    Why is the food so good? I have several overlapping hypotheses, most of them coming from my background as an economist. Interestingly, India’s culinary advantages can be traced to some good and some not-so-good aspects of Indian society.

    First, food supply chains here are typically very short. Trucking, refrigeration and other aspects of modernity are widespread, but a lot of supply chains are left over from a time when those were luxuries. So if you are eating a vegetable, there is a good chance it came from nearby. That usually means it is more fresh and tastes better.

    The sad truth is that India still has very high rates of food spoilage, especially when food is transported longer distances. The country is making significant progress building out its transportation networks, but in the meantime the American culinary tourist enjoys the best of all worlds: Our purchasing power is high, and we can spend our money eating super-local.

And:

    India also has high income inequality. That means there is plenty of cheap labor competing to cook for diners with higher incomes. The “thickness” of the competition leads to innovation and experimentation — there are a lot of restaurants, food stalls, truck stops and the like. It is a buyer’s market. Furthermore, some of India’s best dishes, such as Bengali sweets, are very labor-intensive. Indian desserts that are mediocre in US restaurants receive the proper care and attention in Kolkata.

And:

    Then there is the cultural side. India is a “food nation.” When I ask locals which are the best places to eat, which I regularly do, I am repeatedly struck by how many have strong opinions. When everyone is a food critic, standards rise accordingly. It also makes it easy for the visitor to get quality recommendations.

There are further good arguments at the link. In Bangalore I had a superb meal, Kayasth food, by Manu Chandra in Lupa, this was a special menu:

Is Indian food the world’s best?

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see full post, links, comments and suggestions.

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Peter Chang MacLean

Peter Chang MacLean, web site, 6715 Lowell Ave., McLean, VA, 571-405-6686 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | TripAdvisor | FFX Now | Reddit | Restaurantji | NoVA Mag]

This is probably the second best of the Chang restaurants right now? I won’t go through the full Chang litany, but yes they do have most of the classic dishes here, cauliflower included. They also have the green chili fish, which is not always on the menu at Mama Chang proper. But the real treat here is the pork, which is from Amish farms. These are the best pork dishes in any local Chinese restaurant right now. The Twice Cooked Pork is especially fine. And get the beef with crispy rice with green chilies, again one of the best Chinese dishes around at the moment.

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Why do the servers always want to take our cutlery and plates and glasses away?

I have noticed repeatedly, over the course of many restaurant visits, that my servers want to take away my plates, my glasses, my cutlery, and indeed almost anything else — before I really want to give it up.

The ratio of “they want to take it away too soon” to “they take it away too late” seems to me at least five to one.

Those who know me would not describe me as a lingerer over meals, or a very slow eater. So I do not view this phenomenon as merely my peculiarity, rather the servers often want to take my things away before I am done with them.

In many restaurants the servers seem to put more energy into keeping your table clean than in taking your order promptly in the first place.

How should we model this behavior?

One possibility is that the servers know they will be busier yet later on, so they want to get some of the work out of the way now. Surely that holds in many cases, but still I observe this “server grabbing behavior” in a wide variety of circumstances, including in near-empty restaurants.

Could it be that the restaurant managers give these instructions, hoping it will induce the diners to order further dishes and spend more money?

Another possibility is that the servers feel the need to signal that they are always busy, rather than standing around and looking idle. I can imagine that hypothesis having some truth, but it doesn’t explain the entirety of what I observe.

The most plausible general explanation is that the restaurant managers favor a more rapid turnover of tables than the customers do, and regular plate- and glass-clearing helps to achieve that end. It also creates another “point of contact,” giving the customer the opportunity to ask for the check. Still, you might think ex ante competition to attract diners would moderate this practice more than it does.

I have asked both current and former servers why there is so much emphasis on place-clearing, and usually I receive circular answers, such as “We want to make sure your plates and glasses are cleared away when you are done with them.”

So what is the best way of thinking about this practice?

Why do the servers always want to take our cutlery and plates and glasses away?

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Eating well in Stockholm

Yes, the fancy expensive places are great. But more generally, I recommend that you order the dishes with game and lingonberries, most of all lingonberries. Soups here are above average, and I do not generally love soups. The pizza is surprisingly good, make sure you order it with “pizza salad,” which turns out to be cabbage. If you are craving non-Western food, I would try Persian before Indian or Chinese. At breakfast, butter is consistently good. Overall, Stockholm is a quality food city, though it is not superb when it comes to breadth.

Eating well in Stockholm

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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