How American food got so bad

Here is a podcast with me, interviewed by Stephen Dubner. Excerpt:

I think there is a very bad period for American food. It runs something like 1910 through maybe the 1980’s. And that’s the age of the frozen TV dinner, of the sugar donut, of fast food, of the chain, and really a lot of it is not very good. If you go back to the 19th century and you read Europeans who’ve come to the United States, they’re really quite impressed by the freshness and variety that is on offer.

I attempt to explain how this came about, in the podcast and in one chapter of my forthcoming book An Economist Gets Lunch: New Rules for Everyday Foodies. Believe it or not, a lot of the blame can be placed on government, including Prohibition and immigration restrictions. The book is due out in April, in both physical and e-copies, and it’s the longest and most comprehensive book I’ve written (yet without the price being high).

By the way, am I a food snob? I told Dubner:

Let me just give you a few traits of food snobs that I would differ from. First, they tend to see commercialization as the villain. I tend to see commercialization as the savior. Second, they tend to construct a kind of good versus bad narrative where the bad guys are agribusiness, or corporations, or something like chains, or fast food, or microwaves. And I tend to see those institutions as flexible, as institutions that can respond, and as the institutions that actually fix the problem and make things better. So those would be two ways in which I’m not-only not a food snob, but I’m really on the other side of the debate.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Kabob n Karahi

Kabob n Karahi, web site, 15521 New Hampshire Avenue, Silver Spring, MD, 301-879-0044, in Cloverly Center, a ways north of the Beltway and north of the Intercounty Connector. (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | WaPo | Washingtonian | zabihah | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

This is probably the #1 Pakistani place right now. I recommend the Karahi specialties, the lamb chops, haleem (weekends only), the chick peas, and the bread. Everything tastes real. The Chat is supposed to be good, I have not had it. A strong restaurant across the board, also good for people-watching.

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Posted in Columbia/Laurel, Maryland, Pakistani, The Best, Walter Reed/Silver Spring | 3 Comments

Where to eat in Naples, Italy

Schnappschuss
Creative Commons License photo credit: thilo_hilberer

1. Friggitoria-Pizzeria Giuliano, Calata Trinia Maggiore 33, open at 7 a.m. or so, one of the best pizzas I’ve had, and for only four euros. [Fodors | Time Out]

2. Mandara, Via Ponte di Tappia 90-92, doesn’t look like much, more of a deli than restaurant, order at the counter and mimic the choices of others. Go before the line heads out the door. [Time Out]

3. Il Piccolo Ristoro, Calata Porto di Massa, inside the port, not really on a street, the cabbies seem to know where it is, only a few tables, one of the best seafood meals I’ve had. Not outrageously expensive. [Time Out]

Recently I had two and a half days in Naples, following a meeting in Rome, and it is one of my favorite cities. To live in, it combines the worst of Europe and the developing world. To visit, it combines the best of Europe and the developing world.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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100 Degree Chinese Cuisine

100 Degree Chinese Cuisine, web site, 3903 Fair Ridge Drive, Unit H, Fairfax, VA, 703-537-0788 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Don Rockwell | Yelp]

There is now a real Hunan restaurant in Fairfax, near Fair Oaks Mall, in the mall with the Harris Teeter. It attracts an almost exclusively Chinese clientele and, to my untrained eye, some of them seem to be the Uighur group which hangs out in Fairfax but does not (yet?) have a restaurant of its own.

This place is not cooking at the exalted level of Sichuan Pavilion in Rockville, but it is competitive with the other semi-authentic Chinese places in this region. I sampled five dishes and all were very good. I have yet to figure out the optimal dishes to order but I may post more when I do so.

Recommended to anyone with an interest in real Chinese food.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Can you eat decently at an indecent restaurant?

I have a short piece in the NYT Sunday magazine on that question, here is one excerpt:

Moisture is a key element to consider. Eggs, traditionally deemed a safe choice in diners, are easy to overcook and thus are often served dry and tasteless. Chili and other slow-simmering dishes are a better option, because they can be left on the stove forever and still taste O.K. The initial recipe may not be optimal, but the restaurant’s mistakes probably won’t make them worse, and the spices in a good blend can overcome mediocre ingredients. Ribs, which are usually cooked mechanically with little threat of human error, can also sit for a long time at low heat and will almost certainly taste better than they look. At an Italian restaurant, spaghetti is a safer choice than lasagna, since a lot of the moisture is added ex post, through the sauce, making it harder to dry it out.

Naked hippo toy sunbathing by pool ?! , Majorca
Creative Commons License photo credit: Thomas Tolkien

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Oegadgib – Oe Gad Gib

Oegadgib or Oe Gad Gib, web site, 7331 Little River Turnpike, Annandale, VA, but quite set back from the road, behind the Latino meat market, 703-941-3100 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | WaPo | dishtip | Don Rockwell | Yelp]

Very Korean, rustic-looking, good meat dishes, good bibim bap, maybe the specialty is the hot pot with kimchee, sausage, ham, and other vegetables, which tastes a bit like something from southwest France plus Korean spices. They have lots of barbecue and some all-you-can-eat specials. For the hard core there is potato and pork bone stew, quite tasty but makes few concessions to Western taste. A solid place with some dishes you can’t find anywhere else in Annandale, any fan of Korean food should try it at least once.

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Mount of Lebanon

Mount of Lebanon, 2922 Annandale Rd., Falls Church, VA, 703-241-7071 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window)

This is a reopened version of the excellent restaurant which used to be in Falls Church City, attached to a Lebanese butcher, before it burned down. It’s now much larger and, for some reason, the food is even tastier. Extremely authentic and reasonably priced, much cheaper than either Cava or Me Jana. Get the hummus with meat, the grape leaves, the lamb with yogurt sauce (lamb feteh), the spicy sausage. Definitely recommended, an excellent place across all dimensions. They also serve lamb brains, for those who seek that. Some day I will try the quails.

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Viet Taste

Viet Taste, web site, Eden Center, 6763 Wilson Blvd, Ste 6A, Falls Church, VA, 703-531-0011 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | Washingtonian | NoVA Mag | Yelp]

This may just be the best all-around Vietnamese restaurant in Eden Center right now. As I spend more time in Eden Center, I go more to the places with a single specialized dish and that is where I find my highest rewards. But if you want a bunch of typical Vietnamese items for a group, including the classics, this is the freshest and the best. I don’t have so many particular recommendations here, though I like the duck with bamboo shoots soup and the seafood clay pot. Everything is good and the décor is nicer than in most of the other places. The place which now becomes less valuable is Present, actually, though I still enjoy going there.

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Cinthia’s Bakery and Cafe

Cinthia’s Bakery and Cafe, 5860 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA (just west/southwest of Bailey’s Crossroads Shopping Center (with Full Kee and Trader Joe’s)), 703-998-1771, opens at 9 am, closed Tuesdays (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window)

A charming bakery and Bolivian eatery with consistently good soups and meat dishes. On weekends it is packed by 11:30 am, excellent crowd. The Bolivian offerings in this area have seen an upgrade lately, but this is probably the single best place right now. No surprises, just very fresh and consistent on execution. If you don’t know Bolivian cuisine, trying it is a must. It also is the best-smelling of all the Bolivian bakeries. Definitely recommended.

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Bang Ga Nae

Bang Ga Nae, 6499 Little River Turnpike, Alexandria, VA, 703-941-2722 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window)

Located in the little house where the North Korean place (Pyongyang Soondae) used to be. Now they specialize in goat dishes, done three ways, spicy or not. Soft, tender, and juicy meat, try it even if you don’t like goat. Goes with excellent greens, and good cold vegetables with the meal, especially the tofu. At the end they pour some rice into the simmering sauce, pour in some black sesame seeds, and pour in some extra spices to make a Korean fried rice dish which is one of the area’s best, very theatrical too. The goat is first-rate and overall this place is highly original. The menu is short but they also serve Cornish hen stuffed with rice, a cod dish, pressure-cooked pork feet, and seafood pancake. The service is also good and mostly they speak decent English. Right now this is probably the best “specialty” restaurant in the Korean section of Annandale.

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Posted in Annandale, Current Favorites, Korean, The Best, Virginia | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments