Is food the new music? (sentences to ponder)


Jiro Dreams of Sushi Official Trailer

Food has replaced music at the heart of the cultural conversation for so many, and I wonder if it’s because food and dining still offer true scarcity whereas music is so freely available everywhere that it’s become a poor signaling mechanism for status and taste. If you’ve eaten at Noma, you’ve had an experience a very tiny fraction of the world will be lucky enough to experience, whereas if you name any musical artist, I can likely find their music and be listening to it within a few mouse clicks. Legally, too, which removes even more of the caché that came with illicit downloading, the thrill of being a digital bootlegger.

Once, it felt like watching music videos on MTV was a form of rebellion in plain sight. Nowadays, the channel doesn’t play any music videos. Instead, we have dozens of food and cooking shows, even entire channels like The Food Network dedicated to the topic. Chefs have become elevated to the status of master craftsmen, with names that have risen above the status of their restaurants, and diners revere someone like Jiro of Jiro Dreams of Sushi fame the way a previous generation worshipped the guitar sound of a rock god like Jimi Hendrix.

The food scene today offers a seemingly never-ending supply of scarce experiences, ingredients, and dishes. Cronuts you have to wait in line for a few hours to get your hands on. Pop-up restaurants that serve only on a few nights a week for a few weeks, then disappear forever. Restaurants that you have to sacrifice a goat to just to get a reservation, and then they’ll actually take that goat you killed and prepare your entire dinner from it, nose to tail. A white truffle add-on that tacks $80 on to a single piece of cured hamachi, and oh, the truffle is only available for four weeks a year and came over on a gondola from Alba, Italy, and the hamachi is one of the last of three members of its species so you know, you should probably try it before…oops, sorry, the chef says someone just ordered the last of it. Yep, it’s that couple at the corner table, and that’s the last plate that she’s Instagramming right now.

That is from Eugene Wei, with more of interest at the link, via Graham Rowe.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.


Transplanted Cuisines–Rachel Laudan

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Masseria

Masseria, web site, 1340 4th Street NE, Washington, DC, 202-608-1330, right near Union Market, don’t expect the outside to look like a normal restaurant but yes it is there behind the street garbage. (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [WaPo | Washingtonian | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

Food from Puglia and Sicily, striking in its originality for the American scene. Fixed price menu only, but you choose from a longer list. Load up on the pastas as much as possible, and the linguini with XO sauce is especially good. This is probably the best pasta served in DC right now. The interior is stylish, the food is not cheap, but right now this is one of the few places in town worth spending some money on.

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If you could know only one thing about a city’s food scene…

No, it is not knowledge of the city’s best dish, nor is it access to all the Yelp reviews, or even an understanding of how the spices in that cuisine work together.

I have a simple nomination. If you could only know one thing about a city, you would like to know what time the best and most popular restaurants fill up.

If you know that time, you can walk around a restaurant-rich area. Wait for the best places to start filling up, and then make your move and muscle your way through the door. Voila, the wisdom of crowds!

If you come too early, you cannot glean information from watching the customer flow because there isn’t any. If you come too late, the best places are already full, or they have lines which are too long. But if you are there at just the right time, and attentive to the movement of the crowds, what really can go wrong?

In Singapore the best time to start stalking the hawker centres is about 10:30 a.m., certainly no later than 11. Otherwise the lines at the best stalls are simply too long. Just show up at the right time, and assume the Singaporeans know what they are doing. It works. In Paris you must be looking for a good lunch restaurant before 12:30.

It is a common theme in food economics that knowledge of people, or knowledge of social mechanisms, is often more valuable than knowledge of food. Knowing whom to ask and also how to ask is also often more valuable than a detailed knowledge of a cuisine per se.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Split, Croatia bleg

What to do? What to see and where to eat? Our stay there will be brief, but thanks in advance for your assistance…

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

Wikipedia

TripAdvisor

Bonus: Museum of Broken Relationships

Continue reading

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Baan Thai

Baan Thai, web site, 1326 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 202-588-5889 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [WaPo | TripAdvisor | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

Regional Thai cuisine, from four different parts of the country, the attached sushi restaurant serves as a talisman against the uninformed. Get the tapioca chicken, the Isan sausage, and the Thai vermicelli in chili peanut sauce. This is one of three or four local places with real Thai food, and thus one of the best dining spots in DC.

The Yelp reviews are nearly worthless, but here is useful WaPo coverage.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Urban Butcher

Urban Butcher, web site, 8226 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, MD, 301-585-5800 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | WaPo | Washingtonian | TripAdvisor | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

Charcuterie, plus the kind of things which charcuterie restaurants are serving. I ate here once, and really enjoyed my lamb sausage, olives, tuna ceviche, pork belly appetizer, and shepherd’s cheese, plus club soda. Maybe the ceviche was overmarinated, but still a tasty meal and I really went away happy. About the food at least. The service too.

But $76 plus tip? This is not a blog that whinges about prices, but it is hard for me to justify returning there. I guess I should have stuck with their $12 cheeseburger. Or maybe sales taxes in Maryland went up when I wasn’t looking.

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Banana Leaf

Banana Leaf, web site, 5014 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, DC, 202-506-7554 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Washingtonian | TripAdvisor | Bethesda Mag | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

Across the street from the bookstore Politics and Prose. I ate here once, and sampled many different dishes. It just wasn’t that good, and also not that spicy. I’m not sure what else to say.

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Bermuda bleg

I’ll have less than a free day there, but I will put your advice to good use, thanks in advance. What to see and what to eat?

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Rachel Laudan is wise about food

The still-underrated Todd Kliman interviews her:

I’ve been given special powers, and I appoint you czar (funny, isn’t it, how we have so many appointed czars in this unaristocratic country) of food in the US. What is your first order of business? What sorts of laws do you push for? What public statements do you make? What is your 5-year plan? Your 10?

Me? A czar? My first order of business would be to go to the bathroom and throw up in sheer terror. I’m not a fan of appointed czars or of five-year plans. I am a fan of incremental changes. Look what’s happened in the 15 years since I wrote the article. Walmart’s become a major player, so has Monsanto, celebrity chefs, sustainability, and locavore have become household words, fats and sweeteners have been vilified and un-vilified, and now Taco Bell is removing artificial flavoring and coloring, corporations are scrambling to make their products appealing to those who want healthful and organic foods, and McDonald’s is in trouble. No one could have predicted or managed these changes. And many have happened through the power of the word. So I’d turn down the offer. The pen is mightier than the czar!

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments.

Rachel Laudan

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Nanjing bleg

I’ll be there – what to do, what to eat?

Have any of you been to the Rising Sun Anger Release Bar? (For a fee, you can beat up and abuse the staff.) How about The Crying Bar? Lots of markets in Nanjing.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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