How to find good Iranian food

I hardly ever blog Iran, most of all because I’ve never been there, but perhaps the time has come to serve up the meager amount I do know about the place. Let’s start with food, here are a few propositions about Iranian food, at least as it is found in the West:

1. Choose a restaurant which has a diversity of rices, such as zereskh polo (rice with barberries). Or sour cherry rice. The rice you order is a more important decision than the kabob you order. Personally, I like to commit the heresy of loading up a tart rice with a gooey yogurt concoction, such as Mast-o-Mosir, spellings on that one will vary greatly.

2. Choose a restaurant with koreshes, namely stews. The kabobs get boring, Afghan kabobs in this country are usually better anyway, so over time you should end up getting the stews in a Persian restaurant.

3. It is very hard to find Iranian restaurants in the United States which break from the usual medley of offerings. The good news is that there are very few bad Iranian restaurants around.

4. The best Iranian restaurants in this country are probably those in and near Westwood, Los Angeles, not far from UCLA.

5. If you get Iranian bread, it looks boring. But load it up with the spicy green sauce, butter, and yes sliced onion. Then it’s really yummy. Don’t be put off if your bread shows up cold and embedded in plastic wrap, just add the condiments and it will be yummy.

6. I always like the soups, but in this country opt for “minty” over “barley.”

7. Iranian food in Germany and London is also quite good, I don’t think I have had it elsewhere.

8. Buying fesenjan sauce out of a can and cooking with it is much tastier than you might think. This is super-easy and inexpensive. Fesenjan sauce, in case you don’t know, is a kind of walnut and pomegranate mix, for you vegans it works OK with tofu.

9. At the end of writing this post, my own googling led me to a 2009 post I had written on the same topic but had forgotten about completely, it is here if you wish to compare. If nothing else, it shows my views on Iranian food are pretty consistent over time, as is the food itself.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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The Aztec diet was more nutritious than it may seem at first

Colin M. MacLachlan, in his splendid Imperialism and the Origins of Mexican Culture, reports:

1. Corn gruel and tamales were reinforced with fish, seeds of various kinds, fruit, and honey.

2. Beans were supplemented with meat from iguanas, armadillos, and rabbits.

3. The calcium content of corn was (and still is) increased by alkaline cooking with lime (“nixtamalization,” duh).

4. “Pulque” has “substantial food value,” “whether fermented or fresh.”

5. Dried red maguey worms have 71 percent protein.

6. Axayacatl (a species of aquatic insect sometimes called “water boatmen“) have 68.7% protein.

7. Mesquite pods and seeds have high caloric value.

8. “Tecuitlatl (spirulina), the green scum collected from lakes with high saltwater content, was sold in the market to be eaten with chilies and tomatoes and has been shown to be a modern wonder food.”

As you can see, the world of food really could have evolved along very different lines.

I also enjoyed this line from the book:

The fundamental belief that the gods sacrificed themselves to create the Earth and continued to do so to sustain it locked the gods and humans into a circular dependency — a relationship characterized by fearful respect coupled with regulated violence.

Definitely recommended, and oh yes that reminds me, here is the livestream for my chat later today with Peter Thiel.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Ser

Ser, web site, 1110 N. Glebe Road, Arlington, VA, 703-746-9822 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Zagat | WaPo | Washingtonian | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

I tried about six dishes here, and liked all of them. I consider it competitive with the other good tapas places around, and would rather eat here than La Tasca. The real standouts here are the vegetable dishes, one vegetable stew in particular. If you are a vegetarian frustrated with Spanish food, here is the place to come. Others should enjoy it too. It is also spacious and with nice décor and very good service. If you are thinking about parking, just surrender to the underground lot, I don’t think close parking spots nearby even exist, never mind finding an open one.

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China Chilcano

China Chilcano, web site, 418 7th Street NW, Washington, DC, 202-783-0941, open between lunch and dinner times by the way (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [WaPo | Washingtonian | Zagat | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell | Gayot]

I like this Jose Andres place, but it’s not quite what I expected. I thought it would be overpriced, occasionally brilliant, but fundamentally unsound. I’ve now tried about twenty of the dishes and they are pretty consistent, and tasty, but without truly memorable standouts. The innovation is virtually always interesting – imagine unagi sushi on top of a Peruvian purple potato. Tasty, yes, but I’m not sure I need to eat it again. That said, the place has enough interesting dishes that you can just keep on trying them and remain more or less perpetually entertained. On top of that they have a bunch of Peruvian standards. And while it isn’t cheap, I find it affordable for what you get, especially if you just order one of the Peruvian dishes. Overall I’ll keep coming back here. I definitely recommend it, but to some extent your reaction will depend on your expectations. Note that it gets quite crowded and noisy, so I strongly recommend going early.

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Be afraid of hipsters sentences to ponder

Sabot, 25 de Mayo 756, C1002ABP Buenos Aires, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Argentina [Google | TripAdvisor | Fodors | LonelyPlanet | Ylp]

It’s been a longstanding fear of travelers (or travelers like myself, at least) that global conglomerates like McDonald’s or TGI Friday’s might use the bludgeon of the Big Mac or the bluster of Flair to wipe out everything unique, provincial and good. But what struck me on this trip, not having seen BA for a decade and thus being more sensitive to what had changed, was how a different kind of sameness was permeating Porteño restaurant and bar culture—much more indie and elevated, but just as insidious.

The main argument is that when asking for food tips, you need to consider the age of the responder very carefully, and in many cases you should favor the older recommenders, up to some limit of course. The full article is here, hat tip goes to Yana.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Is Scarborough, Ontario the dining capital of the world?

Wednesday night I was taken on a restaurant tour of Scarborough — four different places — plus rolls from a Sri Lankan locale, consumed in the office of the Dean of UT Scarborough and with the assistance of Peter Loewen.

After that eating, and lots of driving around and looking, I concluded Scarborough is the best ethnic food suburb I have seen in my life, ever, and by an order of magnitude. I hope you all have the chance to visit Scarborough, Ontario.

If you are wondering where I went, that is beside the point.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

Update: The Toronto Star covers our Scarborough outing

Also see “Eating through Toronto’s east end: the 10 tastiest spots in Scarborough

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Aldeerah

Aldeerah, web site, 262 SE Cedar Lane, Vienna, VA, 703-573-3205, closed Monday lunch (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | Ylp]

Wow, this place is fun, just opened in early 2015. I’ve only been once, but immediately I saw the menu has about fifteen items which, not only had I never heard of before, but which I had not imagined before. It seems to be real Saudi stuff.

What I tried was excellent. It had lamb on top, high quality meat, and three layers underneath. The bottom layer was rice with a viscous yogurt, the intermediate layer was rice with lamb fat, and the top layer was just plain fragrant rice. I think the name of the dish is Mathloothah. It’s probably not even the best dish they have.

For people watching this is an A+, also. I don’t pretend to have figured out the “code” of this place, but based on what I have seen I would call it a “must visit.”

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Iron Age

Iron Age, preliminary web site, 6023 Centreville Crest Lane, Centreville, VA, 517-403-9743 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Ylp | Don Rockwell | TripAdvisor]

Korean barbecue, with a nod in the Asian fusion direction, as the place emphasizes the meats more than the vegetables and side dishes. And as a meat place it is one of the two or three best Korean barbecue outlets for the quality and general tastiness of the cuts. The décor is spectacular, the music screens are large, and it reminds me of the trendy places in Seoul. It fills up every night, is a place to be seen, and has a general atmosphere of fun and merriment. Definitely recommended, and it is also the best place around to initiate a newcomer into Korean food.

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Mari Vanna

Mari Vanna, web site, 1141 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC 202-783-7777 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | WaPo | Washingtonian | City Paper | Ylp | Don Rockwell]

Let me first say this is one of the very few places in DC that actually has charming and original décor. And the two floors offer very different ambiences. The food? Well, I don’t like most Russian food. That said, this menu is more authentic and more detailed than you might expect. I tried numerous dishes, and while I didn’t like most of them, I blamed at least 2/3 of that on the country rather than on this restaurant. I thought the sour cherry dumplings and the Georgian bread stuffed with cheese were quite good, so you can always get those, and I bet they have a few more good dishes too. And this place is very good for people-watching. Russian people, that is. In any case an interesting experience and I am glad I went.

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Nanjing Bistro

Nanjing Bistro, 11213 Lee Highway, Suite C, Fairfax, VA, 703-385-8686 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Ylp]

Imagine a whole restaurant devoted to Chinese food as it is found in Nanjing! This place is the real deal. You do need to ask for the Chinese menu. Then simply order any dish that appears to have anything to do with Nanjing, such as the shredded tofu dish toward the end of the menu. I also quite like the simple egg with pepper, and their equivalent of spicy dumplings with soup. The pepper-fired spare ribs and the shredded potato. There is some kind of salt duck special which you (often) need to order in advance, I haven’t tried it yet.

Unless you are from Nanjing or thereabouts, this place almost certainly has lots of dishes you haven’t seen before. Mostly not so spicy, by the way. I’m just getting to learn this place, but figured I should get word out right away. Excellent for atmosphere, without being a dump, do note it seems to get pretty busy so go early or reserve in advance. It is one of the current must-visits in the DC area.

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