Should restaurant reservations be for sale?

Here is the entire NYT forum, here is my contribution, “Democratizing the Dining Experience,” excerpt:

Consider how it works when you can’t just buy a place at the table, as is still the case in most restaurants today. Tables at the best places are hard to get and you have to take other measures, such as waiting in long lines, trying to befriend restaurant staff, becoming a regular, or eating much earlier or later than you want to, among other tactics. Those actions cost money, or time, or they are inconvenient, or all of the above. For most people, it is better to have the option to pay money up front to ensure access when desired.

While the explicit pricing of reservations does favor the wealthy, keep in mind a restaurant can only demand so much money. The ability to charge for tables will, over time, limit the rate at which prices for the food go up and that is likely more or less a wash. Besides, paying for a reservation is commonly about 10 percent of the total value of the check, so if you need to, skip dessert and win those dollars back.

When restaurants don’t charge for reservations, they tend to hold back tables for regular customers, celebrities, very attractive people and the politically and socially well connected. You might be dying to go to that restaurant for a special birthday or anniversary, but you’ll simply be unable to get in. Money is ultimately a more egalitarian force than privilege, as everyone’s greenbacks are worth the same.

Here is very different contribution from that forum, “The Latest Slap in the Face From Restaurants,” and here is “Hospitality Shouldn’t Have a Price.” Here is a chef and restauranteur explaining how he sees it.

If you would like to ponder two follow-up questions, they might be these. First, has the growth of on-line reviews made charging for reservations easier? (And not just technologically easier.) Reputations spread on-line rather than through word of mouth, and thus the restaurant need not work so hard to put the price below market-clearing and attempt to cull customers on the basis of who will spread good word of mouth. Second, how much of the efficiencies here are coming from a form of output-increasing price discrimination (high demanders can pay more to buy their way in, for low demanders some times remain free or cheap), and how much from better matching or other features of the reservations-buying institution?

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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BonChon

BonChon, web site, 7215 Columbia Pike, Annandale, VA (you also can enter from 236 by the Giant), 703-914-1415 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [WaPo | Washingtonian | City Paper | NoVA Mag | Don Rockwell | Ylp]

Korean fried chicken, the classic place, there is also a branch in Arlington off Randolph Avenue and one in Fairfax off Old Lee Highway – at present they have seven locations in Virginia. Get it with the spicy coating, or get a mix of pieces and different sauces. If you cannot share and must choose, I like the wings best.

Korean fried chicken is the best fried chicken around these parts, and it is even (somewhat) healthier for you than regular fried chicken. Everyone should try one of these branches.

The menu here also has about a dozen other Korean dishes, including Bul-Gogi and seafood pancake but you can consider those irrelevant. Note this: cooking the chicken the right way takes about half an hour. Either call ahead or hope to get lucky on the timing and catch a fresh batch.

These places also serve lots of beer as the accompanying drink. If you are not already on the Korean fried chicken bandwagon, now is time to jump on. BonChon has been spreading, while maintaining high quality standards.

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How to find good food in Chengdu

1. Many people in Chengdu are experts on the local food scene. Recruit one of them, but don’t be shocked if they insist on paying for your meal every time.

2. Go downtown to the Crowne Plaza hotel, walk out on the main road to your left, and within two minutes you will see on your left a “TangSong food street” — a covered food court about twenty-five small Sichuan places. There is a sushi place too but I saw the customers dipping their sushi rolls in hot red chili oil. It is heartwarming to walk into such a culinary universe.

2b. Within this court my favorite place is labeled “1862 History,” you might spot the small print, in any case the place looks spare and is somewhat larger than the very small venues.

3. MaPo tofu is much finer here, and the black peppers and quality vinegars are to be appreciated.

4. Sichuan chili chicken and Dan Dan noodles are two of my favorite Sichuan dishes back home. Here they have been good, but actually slightly disappointing relative to expectations. Don’t obsess over those during your quest.

4b. There are two philosophies of international trade. In one philosophy, the best dishes are the best dishes and so you should order them at home and also order them abroad in their countries of origin. In the second philosophy, it is the most exportable dishes which get exported but they are not in general the best dishes period. When abroad you therefore should try out the dishes you cannot find at home. For Chengdu at least, this second philosophy is the correct one as Jacob Viner had hinted way back in the mid-1930s.

5. Often the most interesting dishes are the accompanying vegetables. For instance at a hot pot restaurant I had excellent elongated yam cubes coated in a (slightly sweet) blueberry sauce and stacked ever so perfectly. It was the ideal offset to the hotness and tingle of the core dishes. At another restaurant I most enjoyed some simple greens dipped in a sesame soy sauce. Or try potato or lotus root in hot pot.

6. Unless you go to great lengths to avoid this fate, you will end up eating strange parts of the animal. You won’t like all of them, but you won’t dislike all of them either.

6b. If you utter “Ma La” with conviction, they will think you are remarkably sophisticated or perhaps even fluent in Chinese. The populace here seems unaware that some version of real Sichuan food is now reasonably popular in the United States.

7. Many menus have photos, but they show lots of red and are not useful for identifying exactly what you will be eating. See #6.

8. There are two areas — Jin Li and Wenshu Fang — where old buildings and streets are recreated and you can stroll in a kind of outdoor shopping mall. Everyone goes to these locales and they are fun. These neighborhoods are good for finding lots of takeaway Sichuan snacks, including desserts, in a single area, and served in sanitary conditions. That said, I don’t think these are the very best Sichuan goodies to be had in town, as they are designed explicitly for tourists, albeit food-loving Chinese tourists.

9. “Chengdu food” and “Sichuan food” are not the same thing. Sichuan province has more people than France, and Chengdu is simply one large city, and so your favorite Sichuan dish may not be a staple here. The town also has a fair amount of Tibetan food, though I haven’t tried any.

10. If you leave Chengdu confused as to exactly where and what you ate, you probably had a very good food trip.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Shanghai notes

Very good dumplings and noodle soups can be had on the streets in small restaurants for a dollar or two. When you look further afield I can recommend Yi Long Court, a very fine Cantonese restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel. Lost Heaven is a very good Yunnanese restaurant, get the Ti dishes, I enjoyed both branches of this place. For Shanghai dishes, go to Jesse.

The more developed parts of Shanghai feel much more like the United States than any part of Beijing does, yet many traditional neighborhoods remain and there is plenty of good architecture from the early 20th century. If not for the air pollution, this would be one of the best cities in the world. It’s not that cheap, though, once you get past food and taxis.

The long, tree-lined alleys of Chinese neighborhoods have led to a superior reconceptualization of the outdoor shopping mall.

There are policemen who seem to be there to teach drivers how to back into spots using parallel parking.

For eleven years I’ve been writing about “Markets in Everything,” but here in Shanghai I transacted in one of those markets for the first time. I went to “More Than Toilet,” a cafe/restaurant with a toilets theme. Your chair is designed to look like a potty, and I was served my watermelon juice in a model of a urinal, with an elaborate straw, $6 for the experience. (Who knows what I will try next?) The food that was passing by looked horrible, like Chinese Denny’s on steroids. I had blogged the original Taiwan branch of the place some time ago.

The luxury malls do not seem to have benches to sit down on and check your email. But since hardly anyone is shopping in most of those malls, perhaps that doesn’t matter very much.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Conservatives eat here. Liberals eat there.

From a set of national chains, liberals most favored (in relative terms) California Pizza Kitchen.

Conservatives favored Cracker Barrel and Papa Murphy’s and Marie Callender’s and Hooter’s.

For fast food outlets there is a big liberal margin in favor of Chipotle, Boston Chicken, Qdoba, and most of all Au Bon Pain.

There is more here.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Yayla Bistro

Yayla Bistro, web site, 2201 N. Westmoreland St., Arlington, VA ( note that it feels like Falls Church to me), 703-533-5600 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [FCNP | NoVA Mag | Ylp]

Very good cold appetizers and they serve lahmacun, a kind of Turkish pizza and very authentic, and various kinds of pide, or flat breads with toppings. Plus there are the more formal dishes of Bronzino (a fish), kebabs, and the like, which are probably fine but not what I would try. Suddenly we have a new Turkish restaurant, and it is one of the best around, definitely worth a visit. More going for the business and yuppie lunch trade than a mom and pop, but not outrageously priced. Nice décor, overall recommended.

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Kabob House (Afghan Kabob House)

Kabob House, web site, 2045 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, near the county courthouse, 703-294-9999 (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [zabihah | Ylp | Don Rockwell | Zagat]

The standards for Afghan kabobs have so gone up that the question for many places is more like “how close is it?” than “how good is it?” They have one of the best breads, apply the spicy light green sauce, and they are more generous with sides than any other Afghan restaurant I know.

The kabobs are quite good, though perhaps not above average. In any case it is a good go-to place for this neighborhood.

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La Ciccia (and some thoughts on role models in universities)

La Ciccia, web site, 291 30th Street, San Francisco, CA, 415-550-8114 [Zagat | SFGate | Ylp | KQED | Gayot]

That is a Sardinian restaurant in San Francisco, and it was my pick from the San Francsico dining bleg from last week. I recommend it highly, focus on the appetizers and the pastas (uni!), as the meat dishes are less interesting.

Much of the table talk was on whether the true function of universities is to expose us to a wide array of vivid role models, so we could reject most of them and accept a few, thereby giving us a motivated path forward in life. One implication of this is that (lower-level) university athletics might be undervalued, because coaches and even fellow athletes can serve as useful role models in a way that most professors cannot. The question also arises whether we might have more efficient ways of exposing people to vivid role models than through college or university attendance. The “so many professors” approach of the university seems stifling and inefficient, not to mention lacking in diversity, once you view the question in these terms.

Is there such a thing as a “professional role model”? That would mean a person who hasn’t done very much but somehow reflects a lot of positive qualities and can inspire others. Or is that a contradiction in terms? Must the role model have actually done something significant? I believe that professional role models are possible and indeed they exist right now, even if they are not labeled as such.

Is the main function of role models to be accepted and emulated, or to be rejected? Do not underrate the latter possibility.

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

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Elephant Jumps – Update

Elephant Jumps, web site, Thai food in Merrifield, 8110 A Arlington Blvd, Falls Church, VA, 22042, 703-942-6600, in the Yorktowne Center, more on Gallows than Route 50 (it is in the northwest corner of the Center, which sits on the northwest corner of Rte. 50 and Gallows Road). (Metro Trip Planner – opens in new window) [Google | WaPo | Don Rockwell | NoVA Mag | Yelp | View from the Wing – 2013 2014 | Washingtonian | Gayot]

Previous review here.

This place has improved so much I feel it deserves another review. It was already one of the best places on this list, nowadays it is probably the very best place. It has consistently original and authentic Thai food which is refined and improved on a regular basis. These days my favorite dishes are the Yum Pla Dook Foo (ground tuna, dried, peanuts, mango sauce), the Ka Nom Jee (hard to explain, but a mix of Thai delicious stuff on top of piles of noodles), Hung Lay curry (a kind of Thai barbecue, slow-cooked pork in tamarind sauce), crispy rice salad, and then a series of dishes which are not on the menu at all and vary in their availability. They include some spicy noodle dishes, one with pork, sour bamboo shoots curry, and a fermented fish dish as a kind of curry.

Find the proprietor Tom and ask him “What would Tyler do?” And the older dishes which I previously reviewed are as good as ever, though I think no longer the very best ones. And for vegetarians I really like their green beans curry with tofu dish.

If you are ever upset that I am not writing more restaurant reviews, the answer is that I am eating here too much.

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*The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu*

That is the new and excellent book by Dan Jurafsky, due out this September, and I found it interesting throughout. Here is just one bit:

In fact, the more Yelp reviewers mention dessert, the more they like the restaurant. Reviewers who don’t mention a dessert give the restaurants an average review score of 3.6 (out of 5). But reviewers who mention a dessert in their review give a higher average review score, 3.9 out of 5. And when people do talk about dessert, the more times they mention dessert in the review, the higher the rating they give to the restaurant.

This positivity of reviews, filled with metaphors of sex and dessert, turns out to be astonishingly strong.

That is another reason not to trust customer-generated restaurant reviews.

And how exactly do Americans conceive of dessert?

Americans usually describe desserts as soft or dripping wet…US commercials emphasize tender, gooey, rich, creamy food, and associate softness and dripping sweetness with sensual hedonism and pleasure.

This association between soft, sticky things and pleasure isn’t a necessary connection. For example, Strauss found that Korean food commercials emphasize hard, textually stimulating food, using words like wulthung pwulthung hata (solid and bumpy), coalis hata (stinging, stimulating), thok ssota (stinging), and elelhata (spicy to the extent one’s nerves are numbed).

How can you resist a book with sentences such as these?

The pasta and the almond pastry traditions merged in Sicily, resulting in foods with characteristics of both.

Here is a previous MR post on Jurafsky, including a link to his blog, and concerning “Claims about potato chips.”

Originally posted on Marginal Revolution – click to see comments and suggestions.

More video here.

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